This might sound kind of silly, but I recently realized that I hardly ever make “one pan meals”. Even for the simplest things I end up using separate pans: sweating the onions in one, roasting the potatoes on another, cooking the chicken in yet another. So I decided that I was going to attempt a one pan meal. See? It sounds silly. But the continued effort to simplify our space, routines, and well, everything, led me to the realization that while I love to dirty up lots and pots and pans and baking sheets and roasting dishes making fun, elaborate, meals it could be nice to have a small list of one pan meals that I could throw together for busy evenings.
I have to say that my first attempt at this turned out so wonderfully that I might become a convert before winter turns to spring. Kyle was working late one evening so it was just me and the girls. I had big plans to keep things simple and relaxing. I’d picked up a copy of Inside Out for the kids, which I ended up watching with them and loving, and I planned out my one dish meal with things I knew they liked. I bought two bone in, skin on chicken breasts and lots of wonderful root vegetables: carrots, new potatoes, red onions, fennel, and garlic. I also had a bag full of Meyer lemons from a friend’s backyard in California, so I brought a few of those into the mix too. This time of year Meyer lemons can be found at most grocery stores and they’re a wonderful, fragrant addition to lots of dishes!
I made the meal early in the day which involved about ten minutes of simple chopping of the vegetables, slicing of lemons, a couple hefty glugs of grassy olive oil, turns of fresh pepper, and large pinches of kosher salt, and a sprinkling of herbs de Provence (we have some locally made “herb de Provence with dried lavender and it was perfect). I laid it all out on a roasting sheet along with the chicken breasts, covered it and put in the refrigerator until it was getting close to dinner time. I was feeling pretty pleased with myself for keeping it simple, planning ahead, and being prepared and proactive. Frankly, I didn’t even care how good it was because I was just so happy to have it all set ahead of time!
But let me tell you, it was so good I was giddy! It’s been a while since I’ve felt actually giddy about a meal. Happy, satisfied, and pleased, yes, but not giddy, and I was giddy about this one. The vegetables were caramelized to perfection and they’d taken on the flavor of the chicken and the lemons in just the right way. The fennel, carrots, and red onions were sweet and provided a wonderful contrast to the salty potatoes and chicken.
For my carb crazy kids I served the veggies and chicken over bow tie pasta, drizzled the lot with the drippings from the roasting pan, and shaved a bit of sharp parmesan over the top. I suppose that’s cheating since I had to use a pot to cook the pasta, but since cooking pasta doesn’t exactly dirty up the pot I’m giving myself a pass.
The dinner was delicious. We ate it in our pajamas and then headed straight to the couch to watch Inside Out. When Kyle got home from his long day of work I told him about the meal. I was so excited about it I made it again the following night so he could enjoy it too! I made it for him over pasta because it was delicious that way, but you could also eat with some crusty sourdough bread, like we did with the leftovers.
ROASTED CHICKEN AND ROOT VEGETABLES
2 large bone in, skin on chicken breasts
1 fennel bulb, trimmed, and roughly chopped
6 small red new potatoes, cut into bite size pieces
2 large carrots, trimmed, peeled, and roughly chopped
1 red onion, peeled and roughly chopped
6 cloves garlic, peeled
1 Meyer lemon, sliced
extra virgin olive oil
herbs de Provence
freshly ground black pepper
Optional for Serving.
bow tie pasta
freshly grated parmesan
Preheat the oven to 375oF.
Toss all of the chopped vegetables, garlic, and lemon in a large bowl with about 1/2 cup of olive oil, several turns of pepper, a large pinch of salt, and a healthy sprinkling of herbs de Provence. Dump the lot onto a roasting pan, nestle the chicken breasts into the vegetables, drizzle them with olive oil and season them with plenty of salt and pepper.
Put the roasting pan on the middle rack of the oven and roast for about an hour, until the chicken breasts are cooked through, tossing the vegetables around once or twice as it roasts. When the chicken is done, transfer it to a plate to rest for a few minutes while the veggies finish roasting.
Crank the oven up to 425ºF and roast the veggies for an additional ten minutes or until they’re lovely and caramelized, tossing them once if needed. Removed them from the oven and discard the lemon slices.
Carve the chicken from the bone, and then slice it however you desire. Serve the vegetables and chicken immediately over pasta tossed with the drippings and topped with Parmesan, or on it’s own with some crusty bread to sop up the drippings.
ROASTED CHICKEN AND ROOT VEGETABLES
Since this is my first post of the new year, I guess I should begin by wishing you all a happy new year! We’ve spent the time between Christmas and now mostly hibernating. Gigi turned five years old and we spent her birthday as a family. I discovered Yoga with Adriene and it’s been a hugely beneficial addition to my days. My book club has been reading Great Expectations; the going was a little slow and tedious at first, but now towards the end I can’t put it down. I also started Brené Brown’s online semester class called Courage Works and it’s really, really great. Other than books, yoga, and a few sporadic play dates with friends things have been wonderfully quiet and contemplative. It’s been so nice to pull back from work, responsibilities, and obligations and just spend lots of quiet time settling in to the new year.
After a rather difficult 2015, I kept expecting all of that nice, quiet time to manifest into something bigger, and that one day I’d wake up and feel refreshed and renewed. I thought that one day I’d wake up and feel like myself again. But since the month of January has sidled by in a series of cozy grey days, piles of laundry, quite a bit of snow, trips to the library, and excessive cuddling and I still don’t quite feel like myself, I have instead come to the realization that I just have to start somewhere. Starting by sharing a recipe seems like the right place to begin.
The perfect recipe for this week is Thai Coconut Soup with Udon Noodles and Tofu; partly because it’s cold and wet and grey here, and partly because there is no wrong time for Thai Coconut Soup. I shared this recipe ages ago back on my old site, but somehow it missed getting transferred over and I’ve made some adjustments to it over the years, so here it is refreshed and renewed. It’s reassuring to know that a recipe can have a fresh start, even when it feels hard to manifest your own.
This soup is all about the broth which is rich and creamy thanks to peanut butter and coconut milk. The real flavor punch comes from the sofrito: slight heat from the chiles which, when cooked, mellow into a subtle warmth; fragrant and floral lemongrass; vibrant and zingy fresh ginger; assertive garlic and shallots; pungent and irreplaceable fish sauce. The broth is rounded out with a little brown sugar and a kick of lime juice. When it’s ladled into a bowl along with the cooling udon noodles, tofu, and cilantro the result is a wonderfully balanced, perfectly satisfying soup.
THAI COCONUT SOUP
WITH UDON NOODLES AND TOFU
1 14oz package of Firm Tofu (this needs to be drained so make sure to note the extra time in the directions)
1 Tablespoon honey
3 Tablespoons soy sauce
2 Tablespoons sesame oil
2 stalks of lemongrass, peel off the outside layer and quickly chop the tender centers of the stalks
2 Fresno red chilies, seeded and deveined
2-3 inches of fresh ginger, peeled and quickly chopped
4 garlic cloves
1 large shallot, quickly chopped
1/4 cup water
2 tablespoons fish sauce
1 1/2 tablespoons vegetable oil
1 14.5oz can coconut milk
2 tablespoons creamy peanut butter
1 quart chicken broth
1 tablespoon soy sauce
1 tablespoon brown sugar
1/3 cup lime juice (about 1 1/2 limes)
10oz Udon noodles
1 large shallot, thinly sliced
To drain the tofu, wrap it in paper towels, and set it on a plate. Place another plate on top to help press out the water. Let the tofu drain for about an hour. Mix together your honey, soy sauce, and sesame oil to make a marinade for the tofu. After draining for one hour, cut the tofu into 1″ cubes, place in a bowl or dish and pour in the marinade. Gently toss and allow it to sit while you prep all your other ingredients for the soup.
Put all the ingredients for your sofrito in a food processor (lemongrass, chilies, ginger, garlic, water, fish sauce, and shallot) and purée it. Set aside.
In a bowl, gently whisk together all of your soup base ingredients except for the oil (coconut milk, peanut butter, chicken broth, soy sauce, brown sugar, and lime juice). Set aside.
Heat your vegetable oil in a large pot over medium heat. Put in your sofrito and cook it, stirring constantly for a few minutes. Once it smells really fragrant and sweet add in your coconut milk/broth mixture. Bring to a low simmer and cook the soup for 15-20 minutes.
In the meantime, bring another large pot of water to a boil. While you’re waiting for it to come to a boil, heat a large non-stick pan over medium-high heat. Add a bit of vegetable oil to the pan and allow it to heat up. Carefully add your tofu cubes to the pan using a pair of tongs. Sauté the tofu until it’s nice and golden brown on all sides. Transfer the tofu to a plate and set aside.
By now your water should be boiling, toss your Udon noodles in and cook them until they are al dente, then drain them.
Stir the soup well and ladle it into bowls, add in some noodles, top with tofu, cilantro, and the thinly sliced shallot. Drizzle with a tiny bit of sesame oil and serve immediately.
THAI COCONUT SOUP WITH UDON NOODLES AND TOFU
This past September I lost someone very dear to me. Her name is Linda. Linda was a wonderful cross between a mom, grandmother, aunt, advisor, and friend. When you’re raised primarily by a single parent the village that rises up around that parent is so important. Linda and her husband Dave were at the center of that village.
Three Christmas Eve’s ago, Linda was diagnosed with cancer, and this Christmas Eve she won’t be there. Nearly every Christmas Eve our family has gathered with Linda and Dave to celebrate, open gifts, sing carols, eat delicious food, and stuff our faces with Linda’s incredible caramel corn. When my siblings and I were young, it was Linda and Dave who surprised us with the most elaborate and wonderful gifts: a trip to Disneyland for our whole family; a kitten for me, my brother, and sister. I know that gifts aren’t the most important part of Christmas, but it should be noted that Linda was the most thoughtful gift giver and maker. She put so much time and thought and care into the gifts she gave whether it be a literal litter of kittens at Christmas, a handmade knitted blanket in anticipation of Lulu’s birth, or a sewn tooth fairy pillow for Gigi to use when she starts losing teeth.
All of Linda’s gifts were given and made with so much love. The gift we looked most forward to from Linda each year was her caramel corn. When we were kids we got small tins filled with it, as teenagers she gave us empty Red Vines containers packed full of it, and as adults we got lots and lots, not only for ourselves but for our boyfriends, girlfriends, and then husbands and kids. Two Christmas’s ago I went to spend a morning with Linda so she could teach me how to make her beloved caramel corn.
Linda’s Caramel Corn is sweet and salty and crunchy; it can be nibbled at or eaten by the handful. It’s the best caramel corn I’ve ever eaten. I treasure the memory of making it with Linda, and setting out to make it as our Christmas gifts this year will be bittersweet and important.
What a gift that I get to take her with me into this holiday and future Christmas’s with her recipe tradition to carry on. I get to stir the caramel and hear her voice echoing instructions in my ear. I get to clean as I go which is something Linda was a pro at, and something I’m not very good at doing. I get to smell the rich caramel as the popcorn bakes and cools, and keep her in my thoughts all the while. I get to eat a handful of it and taste all those Christmas memories, and I get to miss her. Missing her is a blessing because it means that I got to know her and love her and share some of my happiest memories with her. I get to picture her smile when I give the caramel corn to my brother, sister, husband, brother-in-law, daughters, nephews, and mom. Linda made and and gave her caramel corn with so much love and maybe that’s what made it so delicious; so bringing her love, along with mine into the making of this Christmas’ batches is probably the most important element of making it.
This recipe makes a lot of caramel corn, enough to fill three gallon size ziplock bags to the brim. The recipe could be easily cut in half. If you cut it in half still use the full amount of love, there’s no need to reduce that. Happy Holidays to you all.
LINDA’S CARAMEL CORN
2 cups packed light brown sugar
1/2 cup light corn syrup
1/2 pound unsalted butter
1/4 teaspoon cream of tartar
1 teaspoon fine sea salt
1 teaspoon baking soda
6 quarts (about 24 cups) freshly air popped popcorn
Preheat the oven to 200ºF.
Combine the brown sugar, corn syrup, butter, cream of tartar and salt in a medium saucepan. Heat to boiling, stirring over medium high heat. Boil rapidly to the hard ball stage (250ºF on a candy thermometer).
Remove from heat, stir in baking soda quickly but thoroughly and pour at once over popped corn in a large roasting pan, stirring and tossing gently as you pour. Stir gently until all kernels are coated with a bit of caramel.
Bake at 200ºF for 1 hour, stirring every 20 minutes.
Carefully, turn the caramel corn out onto a counter covered with sheets of parchment or wax paper. Allow to cool before breaking it up a bit.
LINDA’S CARAMEL CORN
When I was a kid, I remember my mom making Rice Crispy Treats when it was time for my twin brother and I to take birthday treats to school. Our birthday is the day before Valentine’s day, so I remember the treats being studded with spicy cinnamon red hots in the muddled shape of hearts. I’m pretty sure that this was in second or third grade because it is coupled together with the memory of my Dad and Stepmom bringing their new dalmatian puppy into our classrooms to celebrate our birthdays in serious style. I’m sure there were years of brownies, cupcakes, and lemon bars, but I only remember the Rice Crispy Treats.
As someone who doesn’t love, or even really like chocolate, I always gravitate towards the caramel, sugar cookie, Rice Crispy Treat side of the dessert table. Rice Crispy Treats seem like such a “kid dessert”. You might go to a friend’s house for dinner and have chocolate soufflé, or a delicious pie or gallette for dessert, but never in my adult life have I had Rice Crispy Treats served to a group of adults. Which sadly means that as an adult you rarely come across a gooey, sticky, sweet tray of Rice Crispy Treats, and that is a real shame. Sure, they’re around at kids’ birthday parties and Halloween parties, but what would be the harm in making up a batch of Rice Crispy Treats to your book club, or to dinner at a friend’s when you’re asked (or volunteer) to make dessert? Nothing! There is no harm in that at all… especially when the Rice Crispy Treats in question are made with rich, nutty, fragrant browned butter, heavenly roasted marshmallows, and a hefty sprinkling of fleur de sel!
I started toying around with my “grown up” version of Rice Crispy Treats a couple years ago and I think I’ve gotten down to the exact, perfect recipe. You’d be amazed at how many different ways a recipe with only four ingredients can go, particularly in regards to the Rice Krispies to marshmallow ratio. My neighbors have been the recipients of a heck of a lot of Rice Crispy Treats test batches over the last couple of years!
I tend to like my Rice Crispy Treats a little more on the gooey side, so I have a more marshmallows to cereal in my recipe, but if you like yours a little firmer you can add an extra 1/2 oz – 1oz of cereal to yours. The key to this recipe is only roasting half of the marshmallows. If you roast them all it changes the consistency of the treats and makes them tough; roasting half gives you that lovely burnt, toasted sugar flavor while the un-roasted marshmallows keep the treats soft and melt-in-your-mouth-y.
These treats would be a wonderful addition to your holiday gatherings, and I promise they’ll be devoured by kids and grownups alike. They only take about ten minutes to make so they’re perfect for throwing together when you’re oven and stovetop have a full dance card. I also should mention they’re amazing in the morning with a cup of piping hot coffee… and you know how I feel about desserts that double as breakfast! This recipe makes enough for a large 9×13 inch pan, if you cut it in half (which I don’t recommend because you’ll probably regret it) you can use a 9X9 inch pan.
BROWN BUTTER ROASTED MARSHMALLOW SALTED RICE CRISPY TREATS
9 oz. Rice Krispies cereal (about 8.5 cups)
20 oz. marshmallows
2 sticks unsalted butter, browned
2 tsp fleur de sel (1 1/2 tsp mixed in, 1/2 tsp on top)
Measure out the Rice Krispies cereal, toss it with 1 1/2 teaspoons of fleur de sel, and set it aside.
Spray or lightly butter a 13×9 inch dish.
Line a roasting sheet with parchment paper and spray it with non-stick spray. Spread 1/2 of the marshmallows out in a single layer and place them on the middle rack in a cold oven. Set the other half of the marshmallows aside.
Turn the oven broiler on at 450oF. Keep a close eye on them while you brown your butter. Pull them from the oven as soon as the top layer of the marshmallows is a deep, golden brown. The marshmallows take about 5 minutes to roast.
Place two sticks of butter in a large, heavy bottomed metal pot and melt the butter over medium heat. Once it begins to foam and sizzle reduce the heat to medium-low. The foam will subside leaving you with separated butter. It will look perfectly clear. Continue to stir. The butter will begin to foam up again and will quickly begin to turn a toasty brown color. When it smells amazing and turns a beautiful, deep brown hue, turn off the burner and quickly add in the un-roasted marshmallows and stir to melt them into the butter.
Your roasted marshmallows should be done roasting at this point. Pull them from the oven, carefully pick up the edges of the parchment and slide the marshmallows straight into the pot. Stir until all the marshmallows are totally melted. If needed you can turn the burner to low to add additional heat to help the process along.
Add in the cereal and salt and mix the whole delicious mess together until well combined. Dump it all into the greased dish and using wet hands (or the back of a wet wooden spoon) quickly, carefully, and gently press the hot mixture evenly into the dish. Sprinkle with another half teaspoon of the salt and let cool to room temperature. Once cooled you can serve them immediately or cover them with plastic wrap and they’ll keep for a couple days… but, honestly, you probably won’t have any left for more than 24 hours.
BROWN BUTTER ROASTED MARSHMALLOW SALTED RICE CRISPY TREATS
First of all, I wanted say a big thank you to all of you who reached out after my last post. All of your messages were so welcome and warmly received. I send love back to all of you, especially to those of you who shared your own stories of loss with me. I’ve been slowly but surely finding my way back into myself, one slow, quiet day at at time. I recently came across a beautiful poem by Pablo Neruda that I’ve been thinking of often:
“The days aren’t discarded or collected, they are bees
that burned with sweetness or maddened
the sting: the struggle continues,
the journeys go and come between honey and pain.
No, the net of years doesn’t unweave: there is no net.
They don’t fall drop by drop from a river: there is no river.
Sleep doesn’t divide life into halves,
or action, or silence, or honor:
life is like a stone, a single motion,
a lonesome bonfire reflected on the leaves,
an arrow, only one, slow or swift, a metal
that climbs or descends burning in your bones.”
So I’ve just been living in the middle, with things neither great, nor terrible, and I have to tell you, it feels pretty good. As hoped for, October was really peaceful. I’ve been focusing on getting our home back in order as we spent most of August and September turning it inside out in order to move the girls into a shared bedroom. We have been spending a lot of days unapologetically home in our sweat pants, going for small outings to visit friends, pick up loads of books from the library, and short jaunts to the grocery store to get ingredients for dinners.
Our meals have stayed pretty basic: risotto, soups, roasted vegetables, ramen, fresh pasta, roasted chickens but I’ve been really enjoying my time in the kitchen again, which is no small thing. I almost always have at least one of my kids under my feet, standing next to me on a step stool, or literally clutching onto the tails of my apron begging for tastes of Parmesan cheese, thin rounds of carrots, or dipping their fingers in mayonnaise and dressings. Often it’s both of the girls together bickering over who gets to dump the ingredients into the food processor, and who got to push the pulse button more times.
Lulu has been my big kitchen “helper” lately. She loves mixing things together and it’s a great way of letting her get familiar with the ingredients that will end up on her plate. She’s not a big dinner eater, often deciding that she “doesn’t prefer” her dinner and asking to be excused barely having taken a bite. However nonchalant she feels about eating, she loves cooking with me, and I happily embrace that.
One meal that is happily devoured by everyone at our dinner table, Lulu included, is simple, satisfying Chicken Noodle Soup. There’s no clever twist on my recipe and you could probably search the Internet and find a dozen similar recipes. It is basic, rich, fortifying, and wonderfully simple. The key to this recipe is using homemade stock, nothing quite compares to it. If you have the day to while away you could make the stock the same day, if not you could use previously made stock, saving the chicken soup bones and ends to make a whole new stock for the next round of soup.
I usually start with either the leftovers from the previous night’s roasted chicken, or roasted chicken breasts. For the roasted chicken breasts I simply place 2-4 large bone-in, skin-on chicken breasts on a roasting sheet, drizzle them with olive oil, season them with kosher salt and freshly ground black pepper and place them in a 375º oven for about 35-45 minutes, until their internal temperature registers 160-165º F. I remove them from the oven and allow them to cool before removing the skin, peeling the meat from the bones and shredding it with a fork (reserving the skin and bones for stock). You really only need two roasted breasts for this recipe, but I always roast four and use the others for enchiladas, salads, mac and cheese, etc.
Other than using homemade stock their’s no real secret to this recipe, it’s important to add the ingredients in careful order so that nothing becomes overcooked, season as you go, and I’m a big believer in cooking the pasta on it’s own before adding it to the individual bowls of soup. I don’t like the starch that pasta adds to the soup when the noodles are cooking in the soup itself, and I can’t handle the mushy, swollen bites of pasta in my leftover soup. It’s worth bringing a separate, heavily salted pot of water to a boil and cooking the pasta al dente. I love to serve this soup with my garlic bread.
CHICKEN NOODLE SOUP
leftovers from 1 whole roasted chicken or two whole roasted chicken breast, shredded
6 cups chicken stock
1 large yellow onion, diced
1 large carrot, sliced
2 celery stalks, sliced
2 cloves garlic, minced
1 bay leaf
1 teaspoon garlic powder
1 teaspoon onion powder
1/2 teaspoon each: dried oregano, dried parsley, dried thyme
1 pinch each: nutmeg, paprika
1lb bow tie or penne pasta
1 tablespoon extra virgin olive oil
freshly ground black pepper
In a large dutch oven, heat the olive oil over medium heat, add the onion. Sauté until the onion is translucent and just begins to brown around the edges, about 5-7 minutes. Add in the garlic, carrots, celery, herbs, nutmeg, and paprika. Sauté for another couple of minutes before adding the broth and chicken. Bring the soup up to a nice, gentle simmer. Season to taste with salt and pepper. Discard the bay leaf.
Bring a large pot of salted water to a boil. Cook about 1/2 cup of pasta per person until al dente. Drain the pasta and add a bit to each bowl before topping off the bowl with the hot soup. Mix gently together and enjoy.
CHICKEN NOODLE SOUP